IT is six years since the business partnership of Jonathan Hall and Marcus Bennett re-opened the Bay Horse in Hurworth, near Darlington, and set a new standard for top notch pub fare.

The accolades have flowed fairly steadily over time, particularly the Michelin Bib Gormand award secured in 2010 and retained ever since.

And the Hall/Bennett empire has grown, with the opening of continental cafe Muse in Yarm in 2012 and then, earlier this year, an Italian in Yarm called Ceno in the premises of what was a short-lived, but rather good we thought, tapas bar. Your reviewer remembers this well for he ate there early in the New Year of 2014, wrote enthusiastically about it but the place had closed before newspaper containing the review hit the streets. Such is the fickle nature of the restaurant business.

All three establishments have been warmly received by D&S reviewers but its a long time since we visited the Bay Horse and it seemed an appropriate moment to check out if the business expansion was stretching the duos talents a little thinly. Were the home fires being kept burning while new ventures were being developed?

We arrived for Sunday lunch having not booked (so this visit was not as carefully planned as the above might suggest) and we were fully aware that we might not get a table. It looked as if that would be the case as we enquired at the bar if they had a table. Yes, they were fully booked and we turned tail and headed back outside only to be intercepted by a member of staff as we got into the car and told that with a bit of jiggling of tables they could squeeze us in. Very kind.

We were not quite sure what this jiggling entailed because we shown to a tale for two in the central bar area. If there had been any jiggling by anyone, it wasnt obvious.

The 2008 refurbishment is wearing well. The conversion of what was the village boozer into a pub which majored on food (locals wanting just a pint still welcome in the lefthand bar) took nine months and created a cosy, traditional, antique feel with some modern touches. It feels a bit gentlemans club in some ways but in a good way.

The Sunday lunch offering is £23.95 for three courses, £19.45 for two and £14.95 for one main. We thought we would struggle with three courses (we were right as it turned out) so decided on a main and a dessert, skipping the opportunity to try the four starters which included truffled celeriac soup and Toulouse sausage rillettes with beetroot coleslaw, marinated beetroot and granary toast. Some big flavours there.

We had some excellent bread to compensate for the skipped starters raisin and hazelnut and also sesame seed, served with good salted butter.

The main course choices included beef sirloin from Robin Hirsts farm in neighbouring Neasham, Dover sole with clams and a chive, shallot and caper Buerre Blanc and a mushroom ballontine. Sylvias choice was the loin of pork which came with some great crunchy crackling, a slightly spicy black pudding and onion stuffing and apple sauce. The pork itself was acceptably moist and tender although Sylvia didnt think it, or the gravy, was particularly flavoursome.

The crushed potato advertised on the menu with the pork arrived as very creamy pureed mash but Sylvia was rather more taken with the roasts which were perfect. There was also a good selection of seasonal greens and carrots, nicely glazed and cooked al dente.

My choice roast grouse carried a hefty £7 supplement but it was hefty plateful of rich, gamey, fruity, varied textured flavour.

The grouse breasts were well rested and the knife cut through the velvety, earthy flesh as if it was butter. They came with confit potato blackberry jelly, roast celeriac, celeriac puree, blackberry gel, Madeira crumbs and bread sauce and Cumberland sausage. The sausage was, according to the menu, en croute but the puff pastry case was missing which was probably no bad thing this dish was rich enough without it.

We managed just one dessert between us, a smooth and creamy custard tart with a stand-out raspberry and marshmallow ice cream beautifully sweet and tart at the same time.

Service was very good. Apart from making the table available at short notice for us, the young staff looked after us very well, keeping us informed of the slight delay with the main courses (to rest the grouse worth the wait).

Our bill was £47.30 and included a half of Bitter and Twisted ale from the Harviestoun Brewery in Scotland (one of a number of real ales available) and a gin and tonic. Pricey perhaps for a pub Sunday lunch but this was a cut above the average for the standard of food, its preparation and the service.

The Hall/Bennett empire has grown considerably but it doesn't seem to have over-stretched itself.

The Bay Horse, 45 The Green, Hurworth, Darlington DL2 2AA. Tel: 01325 720663 Web: thebayhorsehurworth.com

Open for food: Monday to Saturday noon-2:30pm, 6pm-9.30pm. Sunday noon-4pm, 6.30pm- 8.30pm

Ratings(out of ten): Food quality: 8 Surroundings: 9 Service: 9 Value: 7