The Castle Restaurant, Market Place, Middleham, near Leyburn

11:58am Friday 31st August 2007

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There's a lot to be said for the art of slow. In an age of high speed this, instant access that and where everyone seems to be taking life at a breakneck pace, isn't it refreshing to find someone, somewhere who is prepared to take things at a more civilised pace.

And when this exceptional person is in the food business, doesn't it make his stance all the more remarkable?

Juan Martinez is the antithesis of fast food - his restaurant a beacon to the art of proper cooking, the sort of cooking we all should aspire to, had we the time and the inclination. Only Juan does it with bells and whistles.

While many restaurants proudly boast their "locally sourced" food, Juan simply makes his own - the bread, pasta, ice cream, chocolates, puff pastry and puddings. He even grows his own vegetables - as his wife Rebecca ruefully testifies "I was topping and tailing green beans all morning" - for his intimate little establishment.

And that's where the art of slow really kicks in. You really mustn't be in a hurry when you eat here, but that's not to say that you'll feel you've been kept waiting unnecessarily or that you've been neglected. In fact, the service is as attentive as you would ever want it to be.

When I booked I was told that as everything was made to order, my initial suggestion of 8.30pm was brought forward as it was gently suggested that not sitting down to eat until 9pm "might be a little late for you". At the time I didn't know whether to regard this as a comment on our perceived ageing digestive systems or that the kitchen staff wanted to get home early, but, suitably primed, we arrived in good time for what was billed as a "gourmet adventure".

We were not disappointed.

From the moment we stepped through the door of this quirky little restaurant you just know you're in for something special. Rebecca, front of house and head of a staff of one on the night we were there, is immediately on hand with a warm and relaxed welcome; Juan is singing solo in the kitchen.

'Le Menu' is small but perfectly - explicitly - formed, a choice of four from each of the two courses of the prix fixà (£22.95) dinner. Before we settle down to some serious study we're told the grouse has flown - but at a £6 supplement that's probably just as well for the expenses claim - and has been replaced by fillet of pork.

Despite Peter's protestations (he's very fond of his pet guineafowl) I trample all over his finer feelings by choosing the terrine of this tasty bird. This prompts a rather pointless and unresolved debate on the ethics of eating various and differently raised animals, but as I assume I'm not eating anyone's pet and that this particular guineafowl was bred for the table, I refuse to concede the moral high ground. To compound my lack of sensitivity, the terrine, served en croute, includes duck foie gras (another of his farmyard favourites) and comes garlanded with a most delicious port jelly and drizzled with truffle oil.

Oliver is impressed with his broad bean and pea mousse, which comes with a cute little pot of basil crÃme brulÃe and a riot of tomato coulis. And Peter's sensibilities obviously don't extend to the cold-blooded members of the animal kingdom as he declares his handmade ravioli with fresh roasted king prawns and crevette bisque "delicious".

As we nibble on thin slices of Juan's freshly made baguettes, we are presented with the "amuse bouche" - well this one certainly made me smile. A shot glass of roasted red pepper soup served with a sprinkling of - chocolate! Word like "unusual" and "interesting" gradually formed into the verdict "really rather good", but perhaps I wouldn't try it at home.

By now we're mentally preparing our palates for some serious culinary eccentricities but, thankfully, our main courses, while startlingly original and eclectic, wouldn't frighten the horses.

Oliver was set to impress chef with his fondness for pink lamb - the loin of Swaledale was meltingly tender and was imaginatively accompanied by an aubergine mousse, mango and rosemary jus. But Peter was a little underwhelmed by his wild Alaskan halibut fillet with parsley jus - what there was of it was very good, but there really wasn't that much - and the serving of pilaw (sic) rice was barely big enough for it to lay its head upon.

My choice of slow cooked shin of beef (a particularly flavoursome and, I think, much overlooked cut) came with a fabulously rich porcini scented sauce, just the right amount of potato purÃe and was bedecked with a delightfully light and crunchy puff pastry parcel concealing a portion of braised oxtail. Nursery food for grown-ups. My only criticism was that the beef was a little overdone - a case of slowly overdoes it, perhaps?

Vegetables were pretty little bundles of green beans 'tied' with courgette ribbons and, by contrast, some rather boring potatoes.

Puddings, at £5.50, were simply and succinctly two trios - chocolate or red berries - with what was charmingly described as "ice cream of the moment" or local cheeses and oatcakes.

With a bottle of very good house sauvignon and a coffee, the bill for three came to a rather eye-watering £97 - certainly the top end of the market for this part of the country, but I would defy anyone to find such innovative and imaginative cuisine hereabouts in a hurry.