Eating Out
| NORTH YORKSHIRE |  | | | CLEVELAND |  | | | COUNTY DURHAM |  | |
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The General Tarleton, Ferrensby, near Knaresborough
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| OLD AND NEW: The brasserie at the General Tarleton |
AWARD-winning restaurants
are ten-a-penny
these days. There are so
many awards schemes it is
getting to the point where soon
even the most humble roadside
greasy spoon will be sporting an
award - Yorkshire's best fry-up and
a cuppa for under a fiver perhaps.
Some awards carry some authoritative
clout, many others less so.
Too frequently we have
eaten at award-wining establishments
that deserve
only to have the honour
stuffed down the complacent
chef's throat.
But awards do mean that
places get noticed, as The
General Tarleton, a few
miles south of Boroughbridge
on the road to Knaresborough,
did in 2007. The Yorkshire
Tourist Board declared it Yorkshire's
Pub of the Year and it was
also honoured for "Best Use of Regional
Produce on the Menu" in
the deliciouslyorkshire awards.
Sounds impressive but, as we had
also received independent positive
recommendations, a trip down the
A1 was called for.
Never have two gallons of diesel
been burnt to better effect. We had
lunch. It was superb and, in terms
of the quality of the cooking, easily
on a par with the Michelin-starred
Star at Harome, the last place we
really enthused about.
Although at the busy roadside of
the rather dull Ferrensby village,
the General Tarleton has been
neatly spruced up with quality fixtures
and fittings, managing to retain
a pub atmosphere while being
sufficiently commodious to attract
the sophisticated ladies-wholunch
crowd from nearby Harrogate.
Always at home among the ladieswho-
lunch crowd (Sylvia particularly),
we found ourselves at a cosy
table for two in the bar dining area
(there is also an evenings-only formal
restaurant), positioned perfectly
to hear the animated conversation
of a group of ladies
adjacent who were working themselves
into something approaching
a frenzy as they feverishly consulted
their diaries to find a convenient
date for another get-together.
The only thing they all seemed
able to agree was the venue - same
again.
This Battle of the Filofaxes was
moderately diverting until our
starter arrived. We had decided to
share a warm shredded duck salad
(£7.50), which turned out to be a
shrewd move as there was more
than enough for two. The duck was
tender-sweet, the chorizo and
pancetta give it a more savoury
kick and the salad leaves were just
wilted without being soggy.
Simple but beautifully done.
Sylvia thought her rib-eye steak
(£17.95), sourced from an
Angus/Longhorn herd at
nearby Birstwith, was
among the best rib-eye she
had ever tasted - and she's
eaten some rib-eye steak in
her time. Cooked to a succulent
medium, it was full
of flavour and tender as a
piece of red meat could be.
It came with excellent hand-cut
chips, salad and a garlic butter
sauce (from a choice of three - the
other two being peppercorn and
Yorkshire blue cheese).
My seafood pie (£11.95) was a gloriously
creamy and herb-enveloped
collection of white fish,
scallops and prawns. There was
also a touch of vermouth in the
mix which turned out be Noilly
Prat, which may not be from
Knaresborough but the local produce
imperative has to have its
limits.
It was topped with slightly crispy
cheesey potato crust and was accompanied
by purple sprouting
broccoli. Perhaps the pie was
slightly over-salted but it was
damn fine in every other respect.
I finished with a trio of apple
(£6.50) - pannacotta, green apple
sorbet and frangipan tart - all fragrantly
and not-too-sweetly excellent
while Sylvia contented herself
with a coffee.
The bill, excluding drinks (Black
Sheep and Timothy Landlord
among the beers served) came to
less than £50 and we had eaten
from a la carte menu.
There are cheaper, reduced choice,
two and three-course deals available.
1:18pm Friday 2nd May 2008
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