The Star Inn Harome Near Helmsley (from Darlington and Stockton Times)

MICHELIN stars, the supposed gold standard of the restaurant business, are few and far between in the North of England.

Apart from a small cluster in the Lake District and a couple in the area just north of Leeds, they are as rare as fois gras in Ferryhill. In the North-East there is just one - Seaham Hall - and it's the same in North Yorkshire where, outside that Ilkley/Pateley Bridge hotspot, the only culinary shining star, according to the Michelin inspectors, is the appropriately named Star Inn at Harome, near Helmsley.

Given the truly excellent establishments that can be found, what does this say about the Michelin inspection regime? Is it overly obsessed with metropolitan Britain?

Most controversially, is it the eating out guide for people with more money than sense?

It's been at least seven years since this column last visited the picture- perfect pub in the pictureperfect village just a couple of miles west of that picture-perfect market town.

Then we thought the Star brilliant, albeit pricey. The Michelin star was awarded in 2002. It has been reawarded every year since. What does that mean?

All these questions were in my mind as we made our way up Sutton Bank and then gradually downhill into Helmsley and Harome as the most bitter of north winds brought a hint of the Easter snows still to come.

The Star is easy to spot, even on the darkest winter night, because a lighted wood-fired brazier is stationed just outside the entrance as a symbol of the warm welcome that lies within.

It was as promised by the brazier, prompt, warm and smiling. With the minimum of fuss, we were soon sitting in a corner of the bar with a drink and the menus, taking in the cruck-framed antiquity of the 14th century building and the tasteful refurbishment - plumcoloured walls, minimum knickknackery, candlelight - carried out by owners Andrew and Jacquie Pern after they rescued it from near dereliction just over 10 years ago.

The atmosphere is marginally more formal in the dining room but that seemed appropriate for the consumption of some seriously good food, starting with Yoadwath Mill (at nearby Kirkbymoorside) oak-smoked salmon with toast (£9). On the menu it was described as a "plate" of salmon and the menu wasn't kidding. It was a full plateful with more than enough for Sylvia to nick a sliver or two of the softly-smoked fish.

My calves liver with bubble and squeak rosti, smoked bacon and green lentil juices (£18.95) was simply the mostly delicately seared piece of animal innards I can remember.

Pink and pillow-like, it was velvet on the tongue with the bacon adding a savoury edge.

Sylvia's pan fried halibut with Montgomery cheddar cheese rarebit topping, Waldorf salad and shellfish vinaigrette (£19.95)was equally well received, the fish as fresh as the sea and the dish perfectly presented.

Accompanying greens (organic purple sprouting broccoli among them) were served in a dinky copper pan and just as good Sylvia was all done but I wasn't going to resist a brioche bread and butter pudding with hot syrup and black treacle ice cream (£8). Writing this four days later I can still taste the slightly sticky, softness of the brioche and the crumbly texture of the ice cream. Absolutely dreamsville.

Prices, you will have noted, are steep. Restaurant diners will pay about £40 for three courses without wine but the quality was consistent throughout and service was special, and not just because the staff smiled sweetly and the food arrived at the appropriate time.

It was thoughtful service. Like when a jug of water was brought to our table. The jug was turned so the handle was towards us and, when we spilled a little, it was immediately spotted and wiped up.

Excellent food, beautiful surroundings and truly impressive service that makes a real difference to the experience because of its unfussy, informal thoroughness. That's the star quality which merits a stellar Michelin rating.

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