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The Sutton Arms, Faceby, Stokesley

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GOOD IN PARTS: The Sutton Arms at Faceby
GOOD IN PARTS: The Sutton Arms at Faceby

JOURNALISTS love debate.

On the one hand, it has been encouraging to read some of the correspondence this column has prompted in recent months.

But it does make me ask myself whether people are forgetting some key ground rules?

Restaurant reviews are purely subjective sources of opinion: one man's meat is another man's poison; one diner's idea of good taste might be another's idea of tacky kitsch, etc.

The journalists who write this column are not restaurateurs, just food lovers who are lucky enough to get the chance to eat at a broad range of the region's establishments and just about call it "work".

We are sometimes accused of being nit-picking or fussy, yet we attempt to be honest and to paint a warts-and-all picture. To have a restaurant review completely free of criticism would be a bit like having a newspaper containing only "good" news.

It's a noble and laudable concept, but it wouldn't half be dull.

Which brings me off my soapbox and to this week's eaterie, which came to our attention thanks to the efforts of two readers who submitted their own review (via www.dst.co.uk/leisure/readerseatingout) of the Sutton Arms, in the small village of Faceby, just off the main Stokesley to Northallerton A172.

Their mixed review (loved the food, disliked pretty much everything else) prompted a fellow reader's glowing retort, again via the web pages, a few weeks later.

We thought we'd better take a look.

I took care not to read either review before setting out for Faceby on Saturday, to avoid prejudging the pub.

It has been run by Dave and Yvonne Lee for the past four years or so, with their son Stephen in the kitchen. They arrived after a spell at what was the Duke of Wellington at Welbury.

The couple are clearly proud of their offspring's produce, and rightly so.

Almost everything else about the pub is unexceptional, from the Middlesbrough FC scarves adorning the beams in the lounge area to the rather dodgy quotations adorning the walls of the over-lit dining room (James Beard's "A gourmet who thinks of calories is like a tart who looks at her watch"

has always baffled me).

The service veered from unsmiling to almost falsely cheerful, with the kind of waitress who brightly asks if everything is alright while already walking away, perhaps because she doesn't really care about the answer.

Having said that, the service was efficient and prompt.

It was our misfortune to be shown to a table too close to the epicentre of landlady, serving staff and kitchen door: not a relaxing or intimate experience.

Yes, we could have asked for a different table, but perhaps that particular location should not be used for diners at all? Just take my word for it and avoid table 8.

My wife started with garlic prawns in a bread tower (£4.95). The bread tower was in fact an upended slice of baguette with the aerial end cut on the diagonal.

A perfectly tasty creamy sauce laced with plenty of prawns compensated for the gimmicky presentation.

My French black pudding with bacon and a chilli sauce (£5.50) was a much better prospect. The pudding was deliciously light, almost fluffy, and the dish was wellproportioned.

Next, Anna's sea bass fillets with crab, spring onion and chilli mash with herb sauce (£13.50) looked and tasted great. The grilled (or were they fried?) fillets were stacked higgledy-piggledy atop the GOOD IN PARTS: The Sutton Arms at Faceby, above, and, below, the dining area - Pictures: Mike Gibb/D&S Weekend Eating Out by Gareth Dant The Sutton Arms Faceby, Stokesley Tel: 01642 700382 How do you rate the Sutton Arms? Post your own comments or review and vote in our eating out poll at: dst.co.uk/leisure/weekendtimes/eatingout Local suppliers of furniture to bars, hotels and restaurants www.hillcrossfurniture.co.uk 01325 378307 Sponsored by Hill Cross Furniture Eileen and Allan Bruce multi-flavoured mash, amid a scrumptious puddle of delicatelyflavoured sauce.

My "gourmet" fish pie with parmesan mash (£12.50) was massive, bubbling hot and packed with plenty of fish, but otherwise fairly unexceptional pub fare.

Side orders of hand-cut chips and boiled new spuds and veg were well cooked and sized right. There was also a bowl of salad.

Two things about the menu puzzled me. Firstly those side dishes.

A firm but stern note points out that any extra vegetables ordered are free only if eaten up - to cover "wastage".

It's the first time we'd seen a (laudable) attempt by an establishment to discourage food waste.

The second thing was a stern warning, printed on the top of every page of the menu, requesting diners to pay at the bar and not leave any money on tables.

Was this because of a bad experience with untrustworthy staff, or light-fingered customers? Anyway, because we'd not dared go for extra veg, we had room for puddings.

Anna's hot chocolate fudge cake (£3.95) was uninspiring, with a "miserly" amount of fudge, while my treacle and orange tart (£4.50) was a tasty combination in a rather miserly portion.

Both dishes were spoiled by a scraping of cheap, nondescript vanilla ice cream. Puddings at that price deserve much better.

With a gin and tonic, a tonic water and a glass of house dry white, the bill came to £52.10 - too much for a pub meal with only flashes of excellence.

12:49pm Friday 15th February 2008

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Posted by: jenny j, newby,nr.stokelsey on 5:37pm Fri 15 Feb 08
Visited The Sutton Arms in December of 2007. It was the first and last time. I found the place very dreary and could not make out the theme of this place. I found the staff to be very surly for instance , upon entering the place we were asked to wait in bar area to be called by a waitress and taken to a table. In the meantime another couple came in and were seen to before us. The gentlemen explained the the lady that we were before them and she just shrugged her shoulders and said it does not matter and led them to a table. The couple we could see were very embarrased, but for us it just went downhill from there. Although not busy, the staff gave the impression they were just rushed off their feet and it was all to much for them. Even a smile from them would have gone a long way. We just felt uncomfortable there.We ate our meal,nothing special just a Sunday lunch. Queued for ages at the bar to pay for our meal and left. I would not recommend The Sutton Arms to any one. For a good atmosphere and good food try The Station at Piction
Posted by: Keith Martin on 9:11am Tue 19 Feb 08
Having many times taken your recomendation as to places to eat and found them to be none descript, I read your sumary with dismay. We like the banter, the unstuffy none ponsey atmosphere you get at most places, never had a complaint with the food, service or decore!
The quotations you quote are a bit of fun, Middlesbrough's memorabilia - (I support Newcastle) so what? It's a country restauraunt what do you want, the usual stoneware/harvest baskets/toby jugs/brass ware?
We have been going since Martin's cafe days, having had both our 40th Birthday parties and 18 months ago our silver wedding party, nothing is too much trouble, try getting a table Friday/Saturday nights or Sunday lunch. There is a large amount of regulars who would vouche for that not to mention again the good food, the excellent wine and the well kept beer you failed to, Dave Yvonne and the staff make it a great place, friendly, warm welcoming and good value! - Keith and Marie Martin
Posted by: Pat & Jamie Spence, Faceby on 7:10pm Thu 28 Feb 08
Dear Sir,
We live in Faceby and eat at The Sutton Arms most weeks, as well as various other restaurants.
We find the food extremely good value and Steve (the chef) very talented. Yvonne and Dave are always more than generous with us and in the past have helped us and others raise quite a lot of money for charity.
As for the decor, everyone's taste is different and as long as the place is clean, that's fine. We eat there for the food, which is lovely and if you know of anywhere which is better value, please let us know.
Posted by: phil o'donnell, ormesby, middlesbrough on 7:21pm Thu 13 Mar 08
Everytime I have been to the Sutton Arms with my friends and family I have had nothing at all to complain about. The food has been fantastic and the service has been outstanding. We are frequent customers for Sunday Lunch as well as weekday evening meals and the food has never failed to impress. The Landlord + Landlady are very welcoming and nothing is to much trouble for them.
Posted by: Steve Richmond, North Yorks on 9:29am Tue 1 Apr 08
Bland food. Rude staff. Dreary surroundings. Expensive for what you get.
All great reasons to spend your hard earned money elsewhere.
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