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EDITOR'S CHOICE
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Allerton Court Hotel, Northallerton

by Rob Dales

As regular "diners-out" my family tend to rely on only two or three restaurants which we know will satisfy our admittedly high standards of food and service - and welcome.

But if one loses its skilled chef there may be a sudden deterioration, so it is wise to try newcomers to this scene of high quality.

Since the late Fred Davies realised there was a need for a modern hotel in the Northallerton area, and the Sundial Hotel was created, there has been more than one owner and several Head Chefs, the last specialising in Thai food.

Now, new owners are revitalising the Hotel and its Restaurant, with many improvements, which will not only attract diners - conferences, company and family functions will be catered for. The new owners, changing the name of the Hotel to the Allerton Court Hotel, wisely appointed an award-winning chef, Mark Gatty, so three of us visited the Restaurant for an evening meal.

Although tempted by a choice of seven starters, we decided to have the main course and a dessert. Our first pleasure was to find that the vegetables were fresh - always an indication of a good restaurant.

It had not been easy to decide which of the 14 main courses to try. I chose the fillets of sea bass, and nicely dressed, with something different about it, I found it to be the most delicious I have had. (I have been back for it three times!).

Enid decided on the fillet of haddock and gave full marks to the "beer batter" and perfectly cooked potato wedges. Lynda, presumably more hungry, opted for the fish pie, and on a second visit, the home made steak and ale pie, both of which had been prepared to a high standard.

The desserts proved to be a cut above the usual. For example, the Sticky Toffee Pudding is usually about the same wherever it is offered, but we do believe this was the most delicious.

The years of "dining-out" have made us very critical, but we could find no cause for complaint about the food, and the service was excellent from bright young staff who, without being obtrusive, were attentive, and on later visits remembered our particular requirements.

At the end of the evening you can relax in an easy chair for your coffee and, if you are not driving, a port or liquor.

Our little party are not wine-bibbers except on special occasions, but the wine list is likely to provide a choice which will be appreciated as there is such a variety of sources: France, Italy, Australia, Chile, South Africa, California, Argentina and Portugal.

Reflecting later on the cost, we considered this to be most reasonable for the quality of food and service - only £45 for three two-course meals. We forgave the rather disappointing coffee, too watery for our taste. After a meal this is the last impression on the customer, and generally in this area we have found that there is a general decline in the art of coffee making, which the owners may wish to consider. There are improvements on hand to the lay-out of the ground floor, as well as refurbishing, but a great big attraction to us is that, unlike so many restaurants, here you can drive up to the front door and then have plenty of handy space for parking, a boon indeed in these days of congestion!

Which will also be an advantage on market days, when Northallerton is thronged and a bar meal is required: the menu here is satisfying, and you can take advantage of an innovation at the bar - there are little bottles of wine, enough for one serving, white, red, and even rose.

4:12pm Thursday 10th January 2008

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