Six beautiful walks in the North York Moors

1. White Horse Walk

THE classic walk from Sutton Bank National Park Centre takes you to the famous turf-cut hillside landmark, the White Horse of Kilburn. It’s a three-mile route that follows the dramatic escarpment edge for magnificent views, then drops down on woodland paths beneath the cliffs before climbing back up beside the horse itself. The finest view in England, said local author James Herriot.

The start of the walk involves crossing a busy main road so take care. The route out and back along the escarpment edge follows a hard, compacted, level path, with no gates or stiles. The descent into the woods can be muddy and slippery when wet. There's also a steep ascent, up stone steps, by the side of the White Horse.

The route along the escarpment follows an unfenced cliff edge and runs beside the gliding club landing area. Walkers are asked to keep dogs on a lead at all times on this path.

Kilburn White Horse is the most northerly turf-cut figure in Britain and one of the most famous landmarks in North Yorkshire. It's easily visible from the south, below Sutton Bank, and while it's difficult to get a sense of its scale from the path on the escarpment edge above, there are steps down the side which give a closer view.

The horse dates from 1857, when the outline of the horse was marked out by the Kilburn village schoolmaster and his pupils. The horse was then cut into the limestone underneath – to make it more visible today, chalk chippings are added at intervals.

Yorkshire Gliding Club Members of the Yorkshire Gliding Club have flocked to Sutton Bank since 1933 to take advantage of the air rising up and over the escarpment edge. In fact, the shape of the land is so suitable for gliding that the club altitude record stands at over 33,000 feet. As you follow the escarpment edge you might see gliders taking off and landing on the grassy land to the east of the path. It is never safe to walk on to this land. Gliders approach the field from any direction and they are silent, so you will have no warning to get out of the way.

2. Farndale

Enjoy a classic spring walk in the so-called ‘Daffodil Dale’. It’s a straightforward 3½-mile linear route alongside the enchanting River Dove, from Low Mill to Church Houses and back, though there is an alternative return route that climbs through farm fields for some lovely valley views. Depending on the weather, the daffodils are usually out between mid-March and mid-April, but this is a charming walk at any time of year.

The path along the River Dove is clearly marked, from Low Mill to Church Houses. It's mostly on the level, with just two short inclines, and is largely surfaced. There are several gates but no stiles. The field paths have steeper sections, and pass through farmland and farmyards; there are occasional stiles. All paths may be muddy in places.

The daffodil meadows and woodlands of Farndale are privately owned and form part of working farms. Please stick to the paths and don't pick the daffodils – leave them for future generations to enjoy. Again walkers are asked to keep dogs under close control.

It's often said that medieval monks from nearby Rievaulx Abbey planted the first daffodil bulbs here. But the petite wild daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) is one of our native plants and is protected within the Farndale Local Nature Reserve, established in 1955 to safeguard the valley's famous flowers.

Wild daffodils love riverbanks, grassland and woodland – especially woodland with partial shade at the edges and no encroaching vegetation. Luckily, that describes Farndale to a T, with the River Dove snaking through the meadows of a lightly wooded agricultural dale. The daffodils spread either by their seed falling on the ground or by their bulbs being carried downriver. Weather also has a part to play, as extremes of any kind – from drought to overly wet autumns or cold springs – affect bulb growth and flowering. The Farndale daffodils usually manage a grand display, though numbers do vary from year to year.

However, there's one more factor that makes Farndale fab for daffs, and that's the work of local landowners and the National Park Authority, who look after the local habitat together. Maintaining the footpaths keeps visitors on the straight and narrow, avoiding damage to the leaves or roots while growing; while cutting back scrub and branches lets in the light that the daffodils need to thrive.

3. Helmsley and Rievaulx Abbey

The route from the market town of Helmsley to Rievaulx Abbey is a well-trodden one, but it never loses its capacity to delight and inspire. This 7-mile circular route climbs gently for sweeping views of town and castle before dropping down through charming bluebell woods to reach the peaceful village and tranquil ruins of Rievaulx Abbey. Either return the same way, or complete a circuit – and take in more stupendous views – via dramatically sited Rievaulx Terrace and Griff Farm, high above the abbey.

The walk from Helmsley to Rievaulx forms the first part of the Cleveland Way National Trail and is well signposted and waymarked. There are two woodland paths en route, with steps in places.

At Rievaulx a 1½-mile (2.4km) section of the route follows a minor road to Rievaulx Abbey and up to Rievaulx Terrace – there is a concessionary footpath for part of the way but it is only available during the opening days and hours for the Terrace, so at other times you'll have to follow the minor road. From Rievaulx Terrace, please don't return to Helmsley by walking along the busy B1257 – use the concessionary field paths via Griff Farm instead.

The walk passes through fields where sheep and horses may be grazing. Dogs must be kept on a short lead when livestock are present.

Rievaulx Abbey: In 1131 a group of twelve French monks clad in long white cloaks first set their eyes on a serene site located deep in a wooded valley, nestled in the curve of the tranquil River Rye. They and their abbot, Stephen, set to and laid the foundations of what was to become the largest and richest Cistercian house in England. The monks cleared wasteland and forest, and built outlying granges, or farms, that supplied the abbey with food. The intriguing humps and bumps near Griff Farm are all that now remains of Griff Grange, the abbey's original 'home farm', where crops were grown to feed the brothers. At its height, Rievaulx Abbey probably supported 140 monks and 500 lay brothers and servants. Such great wealth, and the monastic obedience to Rome, led Henry VIII to dissolve the monasteries – Rievaulx was suppressed in 1538 and left to decay.

In 1689, Sir Charles Duncombe, a wealthy London banker, bought the extensive Helmsley Estate, associated since medieval times with Helmsley Castle. The castle was deemed unfit for gracious living and, in 1713, Thomas Duncombe erected the mansion of Duncombe Park, giving it elegant gardens and beautiful terraces with an Ionic temple overlooking the castle. Not to be outdone, his son, Thomas Duncombe II, built a third terrace on estate land at Rievaulx in 1758, with a Doric temple at one end and an Ionic temple at the other. It's this terrace that's now owned by the National Trust – decked with wildflowers in spring and summer, including primroses and orchids, and perfect for picnics and panoramic views. The mansion is still the home of the Duncombe family, and while the house isn't open to the public the gardens and parkland are.

4. Levisham and Hole of Horcum

Be prepared for grand landscapes and big views on this North York Moors classic. Starting with the dramatic panorama from Saltergate over the Hole of Horcum, the 5-mile scenic walk follows a prominent track over Levisham Moor, past important archaeological remains. There’s a possible diversion to the stunning viewpoint of Skelton Tower, after which the route drops into the rocky ravine of Dundale Griff and returns along the valley to the Hole of Horcum, climbing back out at Saltergate.

The broad track across Levisham Moor is easy to follow, but it can be muddy in places. Be prepared for poor visibility in bad weather. The ravine of Dundale Griff can be dangerous, with slippery surfaces and falling rocks – keep to the path at all times.

On moorland, it's important to keep your dog on a short lead between March 1 and July 31 when rare birds are nesting on the ground. At all other times please keep your dog on a lead or to heel, and always on a lead near livestock.

Hole of Horcum: The Hole of Horcum is one of the most spectacular features in the National Park – a huge natural amphitheatre 400 feet deep and more than half a mile across. Legends hang easily upon a place known as the 'Devil's Punchbowl' – the best-known says that it was formed when Wade the Giant scooped up a handful of earth to throw at his wife during an argument.

Actually, it was created by a process called spring-sapping, whereby water welling up from the hillside has gradually undermined the slopes above, eating the rocks away grain by grain. Over thousands of years, a once narrow valley has widened and deepened into an enormous cauldron – and the process still continues today.

Levisham Moor: The track across Levisham Moor runs through a landscape rich in archaeological remains – in fact the moor itself is the largest ancient monument in the North York Moors. Half-hidden in the heather are traces of human occupation stretching back thousands of years, from Bronze Age barrows to late Iron Age boundary dykes. These mounds, ditches, banks and ridges are evidence of burial sites, fortified farmsteads, enclosures and field systems – hard to spot at first glance but obvious once identified.

In medieval times, a monastic sheep farm (or bercary) was established at the head of Dundale Griff, and the foundations of stone buildings can still be seen. It's important to keep to the path on the route from Dundale Pond to Skelton Tower, in order to preserve the remains.

Skelton Tower: Ruined Skelton Tower offers an extraordinary view down into Newtondale and over the track of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Built around 1830 by Robert Skelton, rector of Levisham, it was once used as overnight lodgings after a day's shooting on the moors. The grassy headland is a wonderful spot for a picnic, and you'll hear the whistle of the steam trains below in plenty of time for a photograph.

5. Roseberry Topping and Cook's Monument

An ascent of the ‘Yorkshire Matterhorn’, plus a reminder or two of the great navigator and explorer Captain Cook – just some of the delights of this classic 7-mile circular walk through dappled woodlands and across heather moorland.

You’ll encounter two iconic North York Moors landmarks en route – Roseberry Topping and Cook’s Monument – so take your camera and fingers crossed for a clear day. Coming by train on the Esk Valley Railway? Start the walk from Great Ayton station, just outside the town of Great Ayton – simply cross the railway bridge, head up the road and pick up the walk at point 13. Or you can start the walk from the Newton-Under Roseberry car park (A173), in which case walk up Roseberry Lane and turn left at point 6.

The climb up Roseberry Topping (1,050 feet/320 metres) is a steep ascent up a stepped path and stone track – there's also another (gentler) ascent from Gribdale Gate to Cook's Monument. Otherwise the going is straightforward, along well-defined moorland tracks and obvious grass and woodland paths. Please take care where the path crosses the railway line.

Please keep dogs on a short lead or to heel at all times on both the moorland and woodland sections of this walk. In moorland areas, dogs should be kept on a short lead between 1 March and 31July when birds are nesting on the ground. Please also keep dogs on a short lead where livestock is present, including on the path through the fields.

Captain Cook country: During his early years, the young James Cook must have spent many hours walking in this area. Tantalising glimpses of the North Sea from the Topping doubtless set something racing in his heart, and within a few years Cook had started a journey that would take him around the world on his famous voyages of exploration. His initial steps, however, were closer to home – first to Staithes (where he was apprenticed to a local shopkeeper) and then to Whitby. Follow the trail, finding out about his schooldays in Great Ayton at the Captain Cook Schoolroom Museum, before visiting the Captain Cook and Staithes Heritage Centre and then Whitby's Captain Cook Memorial Museum , the latter housed in the building where apprentice seaman Cook first lodged.

Roseberry Topping: Roseberry Topping is an unusual landmark on the otherwise fairly level skyline of the North York Moors. A hard sandstone cap has protected the underlying soft shales and clays, so while the surrounding area was worn away by ice, wind and rain, the Topping survived. Its dramatically shaped summit – seemingly cut away on one side – has another explanation, at least in part. Alum, jet and ironstone have all been quarried and mined out of the hill over the centuries, and ironstone mine workings led to the collapse of the western face in 1912.

Newton Wood: Parts of Newton Wood, on the slopes of Roseberry Topping, have existed for at least 400 years. Indeed, woods like this once covered much of the North York Moors. It's broadleaved woodland, with sessile oaks, rowan, ash, alder and sycamore present – most of the oak trees are of similar size and were probably planted in the 1800s. Unsurprisingly, it's one of the richest woods in the area for birdlife, featuring great spotted woodpeckers, blue tits, woodcock, wood warblers and flycatchers.

6. Wainstones Walk

Some of the most spectacular views in the whole National Park unfold as you cross the heights of Cold Moor, en route to the magnificent rock crags known as the Wainstones. This 8-mile circuit makes a challenging day out, but you are amply rewarded for your efforts, whether it’s watching rock-climbers tackle the crags, sampling one of the most thrilling sections of the Cleveland Way National Trail, or skirting Urra Moor on your return – the latter is the highest point in the North York Moors. This is a fabulous moorland walk, with lots of high points – in every respect!

The route follows moorland tracks through the heather on Cold Moor and Urra Moor and, although these are clearly defined, the going can be wet and boggy in parts. Conditions can change quickly, even in summer, and visibility is sometimes poor. The Cleveland Way section of the walk (from points 5 to 10, including the Wainstones) is largely along a stone surfaced track and is well waymarked. There are no stiles en route, but there are steep ascents and descents at the Wainstones and Hasty Bank.

Please keep dogs on a short lead or to heel at all times, and always on a short lead between March 1 and July 31 when birds are nesting on the ground. You may encounter livestock on the lower parts of the walk – please keep your dog on a short lead near farm animals. It's also safest to keep your dog on a lead near cyclists and horseriders.

The Wainstones: These impressive sandstone crags are the largest such group in the North York Moors. The presence of these pillars and buttresses of rock in such an exposed place shows how resistant they are to weathering. Weaknesses and cracks in the rock have been worn away over centuries by wind, ice and rain to leave joints and fissures between the blocks. Listen carefully on a breezy day and you might hear the wind make a wailing sound as it blows between the jumbled outcrops.

The Wainstones have been popular with rock climbers for years. Many come to climb the twin pillars of the steeple and the needle, which you pass on this walk.

Many of the apparently natural features in the landscape have been left by man's activities over the centuries. As you walk, look for the Three Howes, high on Cold Moor. These are the graves of Bronze Age people who lived here over 3,000 years-ago. Howes may also have been boundary markers between ancient territories, which is why they are usually found on the moor tops. As you walk along the edge of Urra Moor you follow a long bank and ditch. Its age and use remain a mystery. It may have been an ancient defensive earthwork but is more likely to be a medieval boundary marker.