Sir, – At last a restaurateur who having unfolded the neatly starched napkin has, with accuracy, flicked it in the face of the critic.

I refer to Lisa Astley's letter (D&S Jan 2) in response to Mr Dant's review of her establishment, The Dining Room in Boroughbridge (D&S Weekend Eating Out, Dec 12).

There seem to be very few food and restaurant critics who can write in an informed way while at the same time provide wit and knowledge in equal measure – Giles Coren of The Times being a masterly advocate of this journalistic form.

Restaurateurs often take years to build their reputation but then with a pen being mightier than the sword attitude these hard-earned years can easily be damaged, sometimes irreparably on the words of the critic.

Maybe it's the word...critic.

Maybe Mr Dant takes the view that his roll is to criticise and maybe that is why Giles Coren is known as a columnist.

It would be unfair to call just Mr Dant to task when one can in recent reviews learn of a fellow critic's irritable bowel syndrome when reviewing The Keys at Yarm. The food got its first real mention two thirds of the way through that article.

Quattro Ragazzi in Northallerton received a blow shortly after opening.

All these establishments have lain their lives on the line in an attempt to improve the variety and quality of cuisine in the area. If those who then review these establishment could refrain from informing your readership of their medical condition and their irritations in life and concentrate on the matter in hand instead of serving what can seem to be unwarranted revenge with relish.

As for The Dining Room in Boroughbridge, may I suggest readers ignore the review, take up your napkin and form your own opinion ... I know I fully intend to.

ANDY BOTTOMLEY

Stapleton Close, Bedale.