Vista Mar, Saltburn (From Darlington and Stockton Times)

Vista Mar, Saltburn

4:11pm Friday 22nd May 2009

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DINING with a view is a sensation one has to travel afar to savour in this part of the world.

There simply are not many establishments in a truly stunning setting that could be heartily recommended.

The Abbey Inn at Byland and the Bolton Arms at Downholme might be among some people’s nominations in this less-than-crowded category.

On the North York Moors, the pub whose name I’ve forgotten halfway up Rosedale Chimney Bank might also be good but I haven’t heard of anyone who has eaten there in years.

There’s probably some place on the marina at Hartlepool or the front at Seaton Carew or harbourside at Whitby that serves great food along with a jaw-dropping view, but we’ve yet to hear of it. Suggestions are always welcome.

In the meantime, we will have to content ourselves with the culinary offering and outlook of Vista Mar at the bottom of Saltburn bank.

The name makes it sound rather like a faded Blackpool bed and breakfast run by a Bet Lynch-like landlady, but it’s a good deal more sophisticated than that. Firstly, the “Vista” is very good. Bag a table at the front overlooking the terrace where it must be superb to eat on a warm summer evening (rare, I know), and the view is worth the journey.

To the left is the splendid pier, directly in front is the beach and away to the right the bold outcrop of rock that is Huntcliff. A tremendously diverting aspect, especially when there are surfers at play, trying to imagine no doubt that the backdrop for their always precarious but thrilling activity is Bondi beach as opposed to Saltburn cliff and its geriatric lift.

Almost as diverting was our waitress, who didn’t look at all like Bet Lynch it has to said, and brought us menus and drinks. She pointed out that we could choose from the a la carte evening menu or a main course from the rather cheaper lunchtime list.

There were also a few blackboard specials.

If the menus looked vaguely familiar, it was perhaps not surprising. At the helm of the Vista Mar since the end of March have been Bill and Barbara Weeks, formerly of the Otter and Fish at Hurworth, near Darlington.

Brother Richard is still very much in charge at Hurworth but Bill saw an opportunity to develop a restaurant in a rather special place. It had already been converted from a very average Rosie O’Grady’s pub, but had failed to catch on in its new guise.

Like the O and F, the cooking might best be described as “contemporary classic British”. There’s plenty of fish (well, we are at the seaside) but also locally-sourced meat (Yorkshire Dales beef from Patrick Brompton) and game.

Sylvia raved about her potted Yorkshire ham hock terrine starter, particularly the blood orange chutney, the bittersweet acidity competing well with the natural saltiness of the ham hock. It also came with toasted sourdough and was deemed to be worth every penny of £6.95.

My starter of warm salad of beef, radish, shaved fennel and pickled ginger (£6.50) was another great culinary balancing act. There were some strong flavours at work here, but one did not overwhelm any other or take anything away from the meltingly tender strips of beef.

From the specials board, Sylvia had ordered a main course of an 8oz sirloin steak (£15.95) which came with a salad and what our waitress had initially described as three cooked chips but quickly pointed out there were more than three of them. There certainly were and, although thrice-cooked, they were a little on the flabby side. The steak was very good, cooked just about medium.

I was pleasantly surprised by my tuna loin served on a bed of fine beans and with a peppercorn sauce (£12.95). Normally, no self-respecting chef would allow a rich and creamy smash-and-grab sauce like that anywhere near fish, but the meaty tuna loin was more than a match for it, perfectly cooked and sitting high and handsome on the beans.

We decided to share an apple and berry crumble with a ginger-infused creme anglaise (£5.95) and a sensible decision it proved to be. It was massive, big enough to send any surfer straight to the bottom, but we battled manfully because it was lovely.

A beautifully-crumbly sweet topping with ever-so slightly sharp fruit beneath, we did give up on it a few mouthfuls short of the finish and watched the last rays of sunshine pour over the Redcar steelworks on to Huntcliff.

Actually, you can’t see the steelworks from Vista Mar, but by this stage I was getting a bit poetic.

The bill was £62.20. It included two glasses of wine and an excellent latte coffee. Like Saltburn Bank, a bit steep perhaps, but, wow, what a view.

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